Selling a Car With a Salvage or Rebuilt Title in Washington

If you are not sure what your title says, read our salvage title guide first.

Be open about the history even if the buyer does not ask. The title record and a history report can show it anyway. DOL’s buyer page points people to NMVTIS, which covers title, insurance loss and salvage information. Buyers can check it at vehiclehistory.gov.

There is also real legal risk in lying. Under RCW 46.12.750, a false statement on a title application or transfer is a class B felony. DOL’s title fraud page explains title washing, where a brand is removed through document transfers. Never try to work around a brand.

Put a plain statement on the bill of sale, and have the buyer sign it. For example:

• The vehicle was declared a total loss by [insurer] on [date], or reported destroyed on [date].
• The title carries the following marks: [copy them exactly].
• It is sold as it is, in its present condition. Damage I know of: [list it].
• Repairs done, and by whom: [list them, or write “none”].

This is a practical habit. It is not a state form or a legal template. If the sale is large or disputed, ask an attorney to look at your wording.

1. Gather your ownership documents

   For a total loss, DOL’s page says a sale includes the Notice of Cancellation letter and a notarized bill of sale. For a rebuilt car with a current title, use the title.

2. Clear any lender

   A lender must release its interest before a clean transfer. See selling a car with a lien.

3. Sign what needs signing

   DOL says all legal and registered owners shown on the title must sign the Release of Interest. Read our guide on signing a title.

4. Remove your plates

   DOL says sellers are “legally obligated” to remove them.

5. Report the sale

   RCW 46.12.650 gives you five business days. Our Report of Sale guide shows how.

Selling a few cars of your own is fine, but state law requires a dealer license once you buy and sell five or more vehicles in 12 months. Fixing and flipping salvage cars can reach that count fast.

Have these ready, and you will save everyone time:

• What happened to the car, and when?
• Do you have the insurer’s paperwork and photos of the damage?
• Do you have the original invoices for parts? The State Patrol guide says originals are required and internet bid receipts are not accepted.
• Is there a WSP marking at the driver’s door latch pillar? It should not be removed. Removing it is a class C felony.
• Is any lender still listed?

We will not give you a figure, because the damage, repair quality and model all matter. Use listings for similar cars with a branded title, not clean ones. For a car that has not been repaired, get a real offer in hand and compare it with the cost of repair on a written quote. Finding your car’s value shows how to gather those numbers.

Our FAQ confirms we take operable vehicles with a salvage title. We tow for free on a flatbed and pay cash at pickup. Offers depend on the year and model, condition, demand for parts, weight and size, and towing distance.

For anything beyond that, such as a salvage car that does not run, an out-of-state salvage title or a car that is not in your name, call us at (206) 941-0612 and tell us what you have, and we will tell you whether we can take it. See our wrecked car page or how it works.